Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
